tortoise-adventures:

Important Information for Tortoise Owners!

“Last week I had a tortoise come my way that was having regular immobilising spasms. The mature female Ibera was contorted and paralysed for periods of time and it was quite horrific to watch and made myself and her owner feel helpless beyond words. All I could do was tube fluids into her in the hope that if a poisoning case, the toxins could be flushed out of her system. To cut the next 24 hrs short, it developed that she had ingested a few fallen azalea petals the previous evening. This meant that by the following tea time, on return from work her owner discovered her in her contorted form and so the toxins were well and truly into her blood stream. I am pleased to say that with continued fluids through the night, both tubed into mouth and subcutaneously, that by the following lunchtime she was once again feeding and basking. Note Azaleas and tortoises do not belong in the same garden!!

The above photo is the tortoise post trauma” – 

Permission to share granted by Donna

Please share and make sure everyone is aware – Azaleas and tortoises do not mix!! Just a few petals is all it takes.

A very important post by the fantastic @tortoise-adventures. SAFETY FIRST.

tortoise-adventures:

How I keep the humidity up in a tropical tortoises enclosure

These guys are hingebacks and, much like redfoots, need high humidity in their enclosure. These guys like it about 70-80% during the day, rising to 90+ every so often. All leaves and moss are from outside in areas i know don’t use pesticides etc and are just washed before placing them in. The base layer is sterilized top soil mixed with coco coir – make sure to not use compost or similar things because a lot have stuff added to them that are toxic (or full of poop!) Over the soil is a layer of sphagnum moss and then a layer of reptile friendly bark. The bark and leaves seal in the moisture in the soil but prevent them from permanently being on a sopping wet surface. 🙂 The hides are just a plastic hamster hide, a live food tub and an ice cream tub with an entrance cut in and sharp edges sanded down (its a hard life but someone has to eat all that icecream). The hides are filled with soil, bark then moss and on top leaves to protect the moss from the heat somewhat. The water bowl is deliberately closer to the heat lamp to allow it to evaporate off during the day – it does need to be refilled  2x a day though! 🙂 I normally don’t like glass tanks for tortoises, but this one is covered on 3 sides to prevent them stressing. Glass tanks don’t keep heat in well either but my whole room is heated to 21c permanently – their optimum ‘cool end’ temperature. They also raise humidity, but i need that humidity! 🙂 It is covered almost completely with polycarbonate in the basking end (hole cut in for lamps) and wood in the darker, cooler end. This works very well for me, and the babies thrive in it. It can be harder to achieve the look and to maintain it but it pays off in the end! 🙂 

Just message me with any questions! 

Great suggestions! Awesome tortie parent! 

tortoise-adventures:

Garths new owner has made his enclosure all autumnal! 🙂

The leaves/moss/bark help protect the soil and keep it moist, while keeping the ground garth walks on relatively dry. This helps keep the humidity up which is important for hingebacks – a tropical species. Garth clearly loves it, especially the cave style plant pot hides at the back 🙂 

tortoise-adventures:

Garths new owner has made his enclosure all autumnal! 🙂

The leaves/moss/bark help protect the soil and keep it moist, while keeping the ground garth walks on relatively dry. This helps keep the humidity up which is important for hingebacks – a tropical species. Garth clearly loves it, especially the cave style plant pot hides at the back 🙂